Saturday, 3 December 2016

HISTORICAL PHOTOGRAPHIC TECHNIQUES

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Historical photographic processes

Thanks to developments in photographic technology in recent years, the creation of technically perfect photographs is becoming a simple matter, even for those with no specialist knowledge. Digital photography can now be used very easily for purposes of information and documentation, and traditional photography can hardly compete with it in this area.
Of course, if we examine the potential of digital photography for individual artistic creation, it soon becomes clear that formulaic photo-editing programs, and the essential sameness of digital prints, even when the photographs are of completely different types, lead to a certain predictability in the results. The photographs are perfect, but all very much alike.
The easier it becomes to take digital photographs and prepare them for printing, the more likely it is that people will want to return to the techniques of traditional photography for their creative efforts, or to combine the techniques of digital and traditional photography, especially when producing the final version of a photograph – in the creation of a unique, artistic original, or in other words, in the actual process of transferring the picture to paper.
One of the basic characteristics of traditional photography, based on the sensitivity of silver salts to light, is the fact that the photographer can carry out many of the processes himself, adding his own creative touch. The final photograph can take many different forms. Each picture is a unique original. This variety in working methods, the utterly individual character of the result, and the fact that we are always producing an original work, will undoubtedly enable traditional photography to hold its own, though now in the role of an artistic technique.
If we look abroad, we find that ‘alternative’ photographic techniques are steadily gaining in popularity. These are in fact revived historical techniques dating from the beginnings of photography. In the USA, there was an increased interest in the 1980s, but this has increased further in the last few years. Processing kits for practically all the processes ever used are available on the market there. Although some are rather expensive, people buy them. A particular favourite is platinotype, despite the fact that the set of processing chemicals costs about $130. There have been dozens of US publications on the subject, regular creative workshops are organised and there are many articles on the internet, where there is also a discussion group.
Old photographs have a charm of their own. They are unreproducible, each is a unique creation, and even when several are printed from a single negative, no two are exactly the same. A high proportion of personal creativity goes into each photograph. Every picture is different – produced by a different process, on different paper, with different tonality. Photographs printed in the modern minilab, though they are cleanly produced, free of grain and in perfect colour, are worlds apart from carbon or platinum prints.
We know from the history of photography that “high-grade” printing methods survived for a long time. For example, many of our photographers continued producing oil prints and bromoil prints until the 1930s, although gelatine silver-bromide paper – of a type which is still used today, without any substantial changes – had long been widely available. Why did people continue so long with those laborious, time-consuming processes? Perhaps because their greater “malleability” brought greater pleasure and satisfaction in the results.
Those who are interested in individually oriented creation find even greater possibilities in historical photographic processes than in classical photography: not only is there a range of processes (salt process, cyanotype, platinotype, oil print etc.), but there is a choice of methods for achieving the final result (sensitising solution, type of paper, method of processing etc.).
In today’s conditions the historical processes most widely used are those which involve copying a negative. Sensitising the paper for copying is much more practicable than, for example, preparing light-sensitive glass plates for the collodion process. This means that the first part of the negative-positive process, i.e. the negative, has to be achieved by other means.
The old photographic techniques all involve contact printing, so we need a negative of the same size as the final photograph. In classical photography, this means either photographing directly in large format, or making a duplicate negative of the required size. Only a photographer with a fair amount of experience and a well equipped darkroom can handle this task.
Digital technology now makes it possible to create negatives without a darkroom. Many believe it is precisely this fact that has contributed to such an upsurge of interest in historical methods in the last few years.
In any case, historical photographic techniques do not require a conventional darkroom. The sensitive paper is prepared and processed with an ordinary low-wattage tungsten bulb. For the exposure, an enlarger is not necessary; a wooden contact-printing frame with glass is all that is needed. The exposure can be made outdoors, for example on a balcony.
With its freedom from conventional photographic technology, this entire creative field is opening up to people with no photographic background – all you need to do is print the negative on transparent film, coat suitable paper with the chosen sensitive solution, make a contact copy, and then process the picture in low-intensity artificial light.
There are many different processes to choose from – within the range of what is affordable, of course. If you make a pinhole camera and use the salt process, you’ll get pictures at less cost than with classical photography. But if you choose the higher-grade platinum process, you may spend ten times as much.
One thing is certain: the pictures will be interesting and nice to look at, whichever of these processes is used – even the cheapest, cyanotype. The high proportion of handwork clearly plays a role here, lending a touch of “artistry”.
In the Czech Republic, historical photographic processes are of course still waiting to be discovered. The sets of chemicals needed for processing are not yet available on the Czech market, and buying them from the USA is probably rather expensive for the average Czech. There is no literature in this field in Czech. Foreign books are difficult to track down and are expensive. There is some information on the internet, but for the moment, of course, only a few people can read English. And of those people, not many will start trying things out for themselves – they would have the difficult task of tracking down the chemicals and trying everything from scratch, with only the literature to guide them. Far better to start on the more complex processes when someone has shown us, first hand, the methods they use and the potential difficulties. We will be more inclined to try things out for ourselves if we see some fine pictures at an exhibition or in a friend’s collection. For the moment, that’s still something to look forward to.

Types of historical contact processes

1. Processes based on the light sensitivity of silver salts
The sensitive material is silver chloride and the resulting image is formed by particles of silver. Silver chloride can be dispersed in various types of binding agent.

The salt process (salted paper prints)
Suitable paper is coated with a solution of sodium chloride (table salt) and then, after drying, with a solution of silver nitrate. This produces silver chloride, which is sensitive to light. The picture is produced directly upon exposure (contact process). After exposure, the surplus silver nitrate and silver chloride are washed off in water, and a thiosulphate fixer is used. The image is formed by fine particles of silver anchored directly in the mass of the paper, without a binding agent. Because of the large number of silver particles and the fact that they are finely dispersed, the picture is reddish-brown in colour (as with all other contact processes). The salt process was first used by Fox Talbot in 1834. Salt papers were most widely used in the years 1840-1850 (alongside daguerrotypes). Most of the photographs on paper dating from those years were produced directly by the salt process. Some of them are toned with salts of gold or platinum and their colouring varies – often brownish-black, blue-black or a neutral grey-black. A gold or platinum image is not susceptible to changes due to the surrounding atmosphere, and is notably long lasting.
For its simplicity and convenience, and especially because it is so easy to understand, the salt process is very suitable for use in today’s conditions. It is not as problem-free as, for example, the Van Dyke brownprint (see below), but the knowledge that we are working just as photographers did in the 1850s is something quite magical.
In the National Technical Museum, we have devoted a great deal of attention to reconstructions of the salt process because this was the process used in 1835 by the inventor of photography on paper, Fox Talbot, for preparing his first pictures. A further advantage is the fact that the mechanism and chemical reactions of the salt process are so simple and straightforward that even a reasonably attentive schoolboy can easily understand them.

The albumen process
Thin paper is laid on the surface of some salted egg white. After drying, it is coated with a solution of silver nitrate. As in the salt process, the image is formed by fine particles of silver, but these are not embedded directly in the paper, but in the layer of the binding agent of egg white which the surface of the paper is coated with. This makes it possible to achieve a more saturated black and greater brilliance and contrast.
The albumen process was most widely used in the years 1855-1895 – most of the photographs dating from those years are on albumen paper. The image, as in the case of the salt process, is reddish-brown. It is often toned with gold or platinum. This increases its resistance to environmental factors. But albumen photographs are almost always yellowed in the lighter parts, because of the ageing of the binding agent itself – egg white.

Collodion papers
Silver chloride is held in a binding medium consisting of a mixture of collodion and camphor. Collodion is cellulose tetranitrate dissolved in ether and alcohol. On a paper base, the binding agent containing silver chloride (the emulsion layer) is covered with a layer of barium sulphate with gelatine. The image is formed by fine particles of silver in the layer of binding agent, and as with other contact processes, it is reddish-brown. The surface may be either glossy or matt.
Collodion papers were very popular and were used from 1865 until the 1920s. Most studio portraits from that time were taken on collodion paper. They were often toned with salts of gold or platinum.

Gelatine papers
In appearance, these are almost indistinguishable from collodion papers, but instead of collodion, gelatine is used as the binding agent. They were used from 1884 until the 1920s, concurrently with collodion papers, but they were too expensive to compete with collodion. Once again, the image was reddish-brown, and was often toned with gold or platinum.
All the processes mentioned so far are “contact” processes, in which the picture is produced during the exposure, and subsequent processing merely gives it definition and stabilises it. This distinguishes them from the other group of processes, known as “developing” processes, in which only a faint (or even invisible) image is created during exposure, and is developed by subsequent processing. We shall discuss some developing processes below.
2. Processes based on the light sensitivity of iron salts
These processes use ferric salts of organic acids which, under the action of light (its ultraviolet component), are reduced to ferrous salts. For example, ferric oxalate is reduced to ferrous oxalate. This ferrous oxalate is retained as a reducing agent which reduces the ions of noble metals such as silver, platinum or palladium into a solid metallic state, creating the picture. The sensitive solution is applied directly to the paper, so that the picture is anchored directly in the paper without a binding agent.
Instead of the salt of a noble metal, the cyanotype process uses potassium hexacyanoferrate(III), which, with a ferrous salt (produced from a ferric salt under the action of light), creates a blue pigment.

The cyanotype process
The sensitising solution contains iron ammonium citrate and potassium hexacyanoferrate(III). Developing is done in water. Depending on the method used, the image is created in Turnbull or Prussian (Berlin) blue. The image is produced directly during exposure; this is therefore a contact process. It was in use from 1842 onwards.
Cyanotype is, relatively speaking, a very simple, quick and inexpensive process. For this reason, it is one of the first processes tried by many of the people who are now turning to historical photographic techniques. If the picture is toned, there are many options. It can be toned with tea, coffee or tannin after previous bleaching with alkali. Salts of lead or copper are also used. Depending on the toning used, it is possible to obtain various shades of grey, black, brown, red or yellow.

The callitype process
The sensitising solution contains ferric oxalate and silver nitrate. The image is formed by metallic silver. During exposure, only a very faint image is produced; this is intensified by subsequent development in a solution of borax or sodium potassium tartrate. This is therefore a developing process. It came into use in 1844.

The platinotype process
The sensitising solution contains ferric oxalate and potassium chloroplatinate. A faint image is produced, and is developed in a solution of potassium oxalate or some other organic acid salt. The image is formed by particles of metallic platinum embedded directly in the paper (process in use from 1873 onwards).
Platinotype is a very popular process in the USA, despite the fact that it is, relatively speaking, quite expensive. Apparently the US tradition plays a part here – a number of famous photographers in the last century used this technique to create many impressive photographs, which people come across in exhibitions, and quite naturally this stimulates their desire to make their own platinum prints. Another reason may be the fact that this technique produces completely unique and valuable pieces of work, which may survive not only us, but perhaps several generations to come, without any deterioration.

Van Dyke brownprint
The sensitising solution contains iron ammonium citrate and silver nitrate. The image is created during exposure – a contact process. This is followed by washing in water and fixing in thiosulphate. The image is formed by metallic silver of a reddish-brown colour, without a binding agent, directly in the paper. The process was in use from 1889 onwards.
The Van Dyke brownprint is another relatively simple, rapid process which may present fewer problems than other processes. With suitable paper, a satisfying result can be achieved on the very first attempt. The processing of the exposed image is simple, too – no chemicals other than fixer are required.
The process as a whole is quite inexpensive. The sensitising solution contains just three ordinary substances. One of them is silver nitrate, which is quite expensive, but because only a little sensitising solution is needed to coat the paper, the process does not cost too much. And the resulting picture looks every bit as good as, say, a platinotype, which is considerably more complex and many times more expensive to produce. But if we still wish to achieve the qualities of a platinotype by this process, we can tone the finished picture with salts of platinum or palladium, or both together. This gives a platinum/palladium-based picture, i.e. a copy identical in quality at about one quarter of the price of a platinotype. Of course we choose only the really successful pictures for toning, which is likely to mean a further saving.
The main advantage of platinotype is its durability. But if we want to use the old processes mainly for pleasure, the advantage of unlimited durability is probably not so essential. Although silver-based photographs produced by contact processes are less stable than those on modern baryta papers, our pictures will probably survive us just the same. Although the surviving photographs on salted papers from the 1850s have faded considerably, the images are still clearly visible and have their own charm.
The relative affordability and advantages of the Van Dyke brownprint have led us, at the National Technical Museum in Prague, to start with this process as the first to be presented in our creative workshops, “Reconstruction of Historical Photographic Processes”. These workshops are intended for interested members of the public, and the aim is that participants should become sufficiently familiar with the old processes to be able to use them at home. We will provide them with the necessary chemicals for this purpose.
3. Processes based on the light sensitivity of bichromated gelatine or gum arabic (high-quality prints)
These are based on the fact that bichromated gelatine and gum arabic (known as “glue stock”) harden in light, so that that they no longer swell in water and are not soluble in it. The parts of the picture which have not been exposed to light remain water soluble and are washed away during development in water. In the case of a pigment print, the image is formed by pigment which is finely dispersed in the binding medium when the sensitive layer is prepared. In the case of oil and bromoil prints, the image is formed with colour applied subsequently to the relief which was produced in the gelatine when the light-exposed surface was washed in water. In this way it is possible to obtain sharp, high-quality halftone images.
Before exposure, the paper is sensitised with a solution of potassium or ammonium dichromate.
The paper is exposed to light with a significant proportion of UV radiation, and developed in water; no fixer is used.

Pigment prints
The sensitive paper is prepared as follows: suitable paper is coated with a layer of gelatine containing finely dispersed pigment. This may be a pigment powder or carbon powder – in which case, it is called a carbon print.
Before exposure, the paper is sensitised by soaking in a solution of potassium bichromate. After drying, the paper is exposed to produce a contact negative. The exposed paper is soaked and then pressed onto “transfer paper” (paper coated with a layer of pure gelatine). The image from the original paper adheres in its entirety to the transfer paper, so that its bottom layer is now on the top. All parts of the original gelatine with pigment which were not exposed to light (and are therefore not hardened) can now be washed off with water. This produces an image which has the thickest covering in the places which were exposed to the most light, as a result of the hardening of the pigmented gelatine. In this way, a positive is obtained from the negative. The original paper, on which the exposure was made and from which the entire image was detached, is then discarded.
Pigment prints, particularly carbon prints, were once very popular among our photographers, and we often see them in exhibitions. If you learn to prepare pigment paper yourself, you will find it is a relatively simple and rapid process. Since inorganic pigments are very stable, the picture is almost as durable as a platinotype.

Gum prints
The paper is coated with a solution of gum arabic with potassium dichromate, to which watercolour or tempera paint or powder pigment has been added. After drying, the negative is copied in sunlight, in a contact printing frame. After exposure, the picture is only slightly modulated. It has to be developed in cold water, which dissolves the unexposed areas, leaving the exposed areas (the shadows in the picture). Because of the thinness of the layer, the exposed parts reach the surface of the paper and adhere firmly to it, so that the picture, unlike pigment prints, does not need to be transferred. During development in cold water, the unexposed parts are washed away, with the colour, as far as the surface of the paper. The picture does not require any fixing, because the chrome salt is washed away as well.
Gum printing is thus a very simple method, but in order to get good results, we need to gain some experience. We also have to accept the fact that the single-stage gum print described above cannot reproduce all the halftones of the negative. With the single-stage process, there is always a certain amount of detail missing, either in the highlights or in the shadows – depending on how the sensitive layer is prepared, and the choice of exposure and development times.
A picture with saturated shadows and more detailed highlights can be obtained only by several stages of re-copying. After the first development and drying, which provides only middle tones, the picture has to be coated again with a sensitive solution containing less gum arabic and colour; it is copied again and developed until the highlights appear. After drying, it is coated again, with a solution containing the largest amount of gum arabic and colour, and copied for a shorter time, then developed until only the deepest shadows remain.
For a good rendition of tones, it is often necessary to make a second and third print. Usually it is also necessary, between individual prints, to size the paper again, because the original sizing agent is washed off the paper during processing in water. If the paper is not re-sized, the sensitive solution penetrates deep between the fibres of the paper and cannot be washed out during processing, so that there is a haze of colour even in the clearest highlights.
A multilayered gum print with well reproduced halftones is thus quite labour intensive and cannot be prepared in one day. But even with single-stage gum printing, it is possible to obtain perfectly good pictures, provided we accept the limitations of the process and choose suitable motifs, and perhaps copy only the middle tones. Fortunately, gum printing is not, for us, the only possible technique, and negatives in which we need a more perfect rendition of halftones can be processed more simply – for example, by pigment printing.

Oil printing
Based on the principle that a gelatine layer sensitised with dichromate hardens in the places where it is affected by light, so that these parts do not swell during subsequent soaking.
After a contact print has been made, the picture is soaked, and the places unaffected by light become swollen, while the exposed parts do not. Thus, during soaking, a relief is created, in which the raised areas correspond to the highlights and the hollows to the shadows. When thick, oily colour is applied to this moist, swollen gelatine relief, it is left adhering only to the light-exposed parts (not swollen, and therefore forming hollows), and the more these places were exposed to light (and therefore hardened), the greater the amount of adhering colour. This produces a picture with all the halftones. A positive is produced from the negative.
Colour is applied with special brushes, and more or less colour can be applied, more or less thickly, in different places. The density and tonality of various parts of the picture can therefore be influenced to a significant extent. This process differs from pigment and gum printing in that these contain colour before the contract print is made, while in oil printing it is applied afterwards, in a chosen quantity. The advantage is that coloured parts with which we are not satisfied can be cleaned with petrol.

Bromoil prints
These differ from oil prints in that an ordinary photograph, i.e. a silver bromide positive, is used for preparing a swollen-gelatine relief. The photographic paper we use should not have an excessively hardened gelatine layer, because this would not swell much in water. Many types of paper on a resin coated (RC) base, and some traditional baryta papers – provided they are not intended for glazing, and therefore harder – are suitable.
The photograph with well defined highlights and shadows is bleached in a solution of copper sulphate and potassium dichromate. It is then washed, fixed, washed again, and finally dried. The dried picture is soaked and left to swell, and is then coated with oil pigments, as in the case of oil prints. Nowadays, instead of the traditional method of dabbing the colour onto the picture with a fitch brush, the colour is sometimes applied with a foam roller.
The coloured picture can be printed onto another piece of ordinary paper. The picture can then be coloured again, and it is also possible to create a series of prints.
The end result is just as good, whether it’s a bromoil print or an oil print. But bromoil printing has many advantages. In particular, the fact that it does not require a large negative, because you work directly with an enlargement the same size as the final picture. There is also no need to make contact prints in sunlight using a contact printing frame. This removes the need for difficult decisions about the necessary exposure time. Another advantage is that you can easily influence the degree of contrast in the final picture through the choice of the grade of photographic paper used for preparing the initial positive. But it should be emphasised that the relative ease of preparing the basic gelatine relief in no way relieves us of the need to become thoroughly proficient in the next stage, the application of colour, which requires a high degree of skill and plenty of experience. You can’t expect successful pictures at the first attempt.
Because of their advantages, bromoil prints were very popular with our photographers until about the 1920s, and they are often seen in exhibitions.

Choosing the process
If you want to try a historical process yourself, it’s a good idea, initially, to choose one of the simpler ones that doesn’t require too much outlay. Fortunately, even with the simpler and less expensive processes, you can obtain pictures which are just as good as with the more demanding and costly ones. Every process has its own character and possibilities. It’s just a matter of knowing it well and choosing the motifs to which it is best suited.
Even with the cheapest process, e.g. cyanotype, we can create very impressive photographs. But their intense blue colour is only suited to certain subjects – snowy or misty landscapes, for example. On the other hand, these subjects are not suited, for example, to the salt process. This gives a brown tonality in which snow or mist appears unnaturally brown. On the other hand, the salt process is suited to autumn pictures with fallen leaves.
So it’s best to choose processes which can be carried out with simple resources and minimal experience, and to select the subject matter accordingly. Such processes are, for example, cyanotype, the salt process and Van Dyke brownprint.
With these processes, you obtain a picture embedded directly in the fibres of the paper without a binding agent. The fact that the picture is on paper without a layer of binding agent, means that it has much in common with a lithographic print. Unlike ordinary photographs, these pictures do not curl up in heat. If you choose suitable colours and structures for preparing the paper, you can obtain really special, unreproducible originals.

 

Monday, 14 November 2016

5 Firework Photography Tips from Kensuke Mashita


Throughout the world, one thing nearly all New Year’s celebrations have in common is an epic firework display. An incredible visual experience, it’s natural to want to pull out your phone and photograph the fireworks. Unfortunately, it’s common to look back on your fireworks photography and feel a little underwhelmed at the images.
In fact, the combination of distance and low-light can make mobile firework photography one of the most challenging enterprises for any photographer. With the incredible low-light capability of Xperia Z5 though, it becomes a lot easier. To help you prepare for New Year’s Eve, we caught up with Sony Mobile Engineer, Kensuke Mashita, to get his top tips and tricks on how to get great fireworks imagery.

Tip 1 – Ready, Steady…

tripod
One of the most important elements of getting good firework photography and really, any low-light photography is a steady hand. Xperia Z5 already has built-in stabilisation recognition technology, so to get the best shot try balancing your camera on a hard surface or even better use a tripod. Look for the little tripod logo to know if you’ve got the camera steady enough.

Tip 2 – A New Year’s Resolution

ISO-comparison-Z3-Compact
While it may be tempting to use the 23MP setting on Xperia Z5’s camera for capturing great fireworks photography, I’d recommend putting the phone in Manual mode and dropping the resolution down to 8MP. By doing this you can limit excess noise in your shot and really improve your image.
You may want to play around with the ISO setting, if you’ve got your phone on a tripod then you can really crank this up to the maximum 12,800 setting. If not, try working with around ISO 3,200 for clean, blurless imagery.
Also, whenever working with artificial lighting, remember you can control the exposure using the EV sliders and adjusting the white balance to get interesting and different colour effects.

Tip 3 – Use Fireworks Mode

Saying all that, if playing around with settings isn’t your thing, then you’ll probably find it easier just to use the ‘Fireworks’ mode in Scene selection. This optimises the settings to guarantee the best fireworks images. There’s also a ‘Night scene’ mode that you may find useful depending on the composition of your shot. This may be really useful if you’ve got an interesting backdrop to your fireworks.
Keep in mind that even with the right settings, you’ll still need to keep the camera steady!

Tip 4 – No Flashing!

no flash
At night, flash won’t really help you capture images that are any distance away. Also, if you’re hiding indoors from the cold and snapping the fireworks through a window, a flash will reflect and spoil the shot. If fireworks are the focus, then forget about the flash.
The only time it may be useful is if you’re taking a portrait or selfie with the fireworks in the background (using the main camera). Even so, by using the flash you can lose the vividness that makes a fireworks display so attractive.

Tip 5 – Timing is… crucial

Eggleton Timeshift Burst Fireworks 2
Timing is one of the big challenges of firework photography. You don’t want to wait all evening to miss New Year because your camera took too long to react. Xperia Z5’s fast autofocus is really helpful with this, taking just 0.03 seconds to focus, so you can get the exact moment you’re aiming for.
One of the other features you may want to use is Timeshift Burst mode. To get that big full firework blossom shot, set the camera to Timeshift Burst mode. When you’ve lined up your shot press the camera key. Timeshift Burst mode takes up to 61 frames within 2 seconds, starting before you’ve even pressed the camera key. All the images will show up on your screen and you can swipe through to get your perfectly timed photo.

Hopefully, Kensuke’s tips will help you make the most of your New Year’s celebrations. We’d love to see your fireworks shots so share them with us on Twitter and they may even feature on the blog.

 

10 expert photography tips for graphic designers

If you've ever had to provide photography for a client project, it can be tricky to get things just right. Follow these tips to set you on your way.

01. Listen to your client

First of all, always remember the client is king – their happiness is essential to any project. Find out exactly what look and feel they want, and the message that they wish to convey.
You're in a great position to keep the photography complementary and in-line with the brand's image, so use all your creative direction to its full advantage.

02. Keep re-touching invisible

Re-touching can be a fantastic way to iron out imperfections. However any re-touching work should be completely invisible: less is more.
If a heavy amount of retouching is required, make sure you get a good second opinion on the finished outcome. The most powerful images are created with good photography and minimal re-touching.

03. Think creatively

Find your inspiration online or out and about, and decide what you want to achieve. Some projects might require a simple approach, but originality is always a plus for creative work.
Take your ideas and let them grow: if the project allows, think of twists that you can make to a concept to make it your own.

Think creatively. Like combining photography with vector graphics.

04. Use the right equipment

Choosing the right camera is key: it needs to work for you. Make sure it has settings and accessories to compliment the uses you might have for it. Things to think about are: image quality (megapixels and built-in noise reduction), adaptability (lenses and accessories), shutter speed, ISO and tethering.

05. Create a mood board

Mood boards are a fantastic way to pull your ideas together, solidify and simplify them. Find examples of the kind of photography, lighting and tone that you want.
A mood board will help give structure and direction to a shoot, and will illustrate your ideas and overall concept clearly to a client. Try creating a digital mood board with one of these 16 tools.

06. Play with lenses

Experiment and find out which lenses work best for different situations; 28-135mm will cover you for most jobs. As a rule, use 21-35mm for a wide-angle landscape photo; 35-70mm for normal street and documentary shots; and 70-135mm for medium telephoto and portraiture.

07. Plan your shoot

Think about how many shots are needed, the time you have for a project, and if your ideas are feasible and in budget. Create a shoot schedule that all the team is aware of, and stick to it as closely as possible.
Factor in expenses and whether any licences are required for public shoots.

08. Remember accessories

Always be prepared and have spare batteries, a charger and memory cards. Think about investing in a tripod and external flash gun, and remember that you can always hire bigger equipment.
If you're not confident with large-scale main shoot equipment, get an assistant. They can be cheap and incredibly handy.

09. Shooting your own work

Try to give context to your work, shoot on location where possible, keeping it interesting to the eye and always bearing the brand in mind. When shooting still life, shoot somewhere that can be used again at a later date to keep consistency to your portfolio.

10. Familiarise yourself with settings

When shooting, consider how much time you have to turn the photographs over to the client, and what you want to achieve. Ensure you're familiar with new settings and post-production software: things like HDR photography are great time-savers and can produce some stunning effects.

 

Sunday, 13 November 2016

Super-rare supermoon: Six photography tips

It happens on the night of November 14, and the phenomenon's rarity is enhanced by the fact it is our satellite's closest approach to Earth in since January 1948, 68 years ago.
So it's not something you'll want to miss. And if you're planning on bringing your own camera to the show, NASA's senior photographer, Bill Ingalls, posted a series of tips on NASA's website this past week. Here they are:

#1: Share the shot with a major landmark

Sure, the moon will appear larger than its been in decades, but Ingalls said it would be a mistake to try convey that without some kind of reference.
"Instead, think of how to make the image creative — that means tying it into some land-based object," he says. "It can be a local landmark or anything to give your photo a sense of place."

Harvest Supermoon behind Cornwall Seaway International Bridge. Rob Fry, Cornwall, Ont., September 2014

#2: Scout the location
A well-framed supermoon shot doesn't just happen on its own. Ingalls recommends you use whatever tools you need to find the right place to be to have your supermoon rise beside a major landmark.
"It means doing a lot of homework. I use Google Maps and other apps – even a compass -- to plan where to get just the right angle at the right time," he says.
If you do it enough time in advance, you can perhaps even get permission to shoot in less readily accessible places, like rooftops.

#3: Work with what you have

Even if you don't live near a recognizable landmark, or can't get permission for the right access, or don't have the latest gear, Ingalls said improvising with  what you DO have on hand can pay dividends.
In his case, Ingalls had to be creative when shooting Comet Lulin in 2009, having only basic equipment. In the end, he aimed a long telephoto lense between two trees, and used his own car headlamps to illuminate the landscape for a long exposure. The resulting shot won accolades from National Geographic. 
"I had just basic equipment and saw all these people with great telescopes making a picture I could never get. So what could I do differently?" Ingalls recalls.

Maria Czarzasty, Mississauga, Ont., September 2015
Maria Czarzasty, Mississauga, Ont., September 2015

#4: Share the experience

For many, it's a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Why not bring friends and family, especially children? 
Aside from being a fun teaching moment for children, your companions can be ready props for your shot.
"There are lots of great photos of people appearing to be holding the moon in their hand and that kind of thing. You can get really creative with it," he says.

#5: Use your gear the right way

If you're heading out with a digital SLR, Ingalls has a few technical tips for you.
First, he suggests white balancing your camera with the daylight setting: The light, after all, is reflected from the sun.
For those carrying longer lenses, he advises you to remember the moon is, in fact, a moving object.
"It’s a balancing act between trying to get the right exposure and realizing that the shutter speed typically needs to be a lot faster," he says.

#6: Don't write off your smartphone camera

Ingalls says thought it can be "maddening and frustrating" to try shoot the supermoon with your humble smartphone camera, it can be a good challenge.
"You’re not going to get a giant moon in your shot, but you can do something more panoramic, including some foreground that’s interesting," he says. "Think about being in an urban area where it’s a little bit brighter."
As for technique, Ingalls' advice is to tap and hold your finger on the moon, then slide up or down to darken or lighten the exposure.

Friday, 4 November 2016

10 Must-Have Landscape Photography Techniques

 landscape photography techniques 



In order to take a great landscape photograph I believe you have to tell a story and capture the spirit of a location. To truly achieve that you have to use different photography gear and apply different photography techniques.

I always say that nature is rarely perfect. Your images need a helping hand and with the right techniques you give yourself the best chance of taking one of those shots you want to show off to the world. The 10 landscape photography tips below will help you make more of the photo opportunities that you'll come across, when you are in search of that perfect landscape photograph.

1. Early morning and late evening are the best times for shooting landscapes. Blue hour photography and golden hour photography are the only time I venture out to take my landscape images. The reasons; the sun is not as harsh as a stronger high sun and the low angle of the light reveals shadows and textures otherwise missed.

2. When it comes to a location; the best landscapes are rarely found at the side of the road. So be prepared to go for a hike with a map or a GPS Unit in an effort to seek out the most interesting locations that not everyone captures. You can also download Photographers Ephemeris and do some pre-planning before you leave home.

3. When it comes to lenses for capturing breathtaking scenery, use a wide angle lens. A wide angle lens will allow you to include more in the frame and open up the vertical perspective. But, the wide angle lens pushes the scene away, so you can also consider using a longer focal length lens and compressing the depth of just a part of the entire scene.

4. If you have a DSLR camera that gives you control over settings such as shutter speed, aperture and exposure values “EV”, set your camera on “Aperture Priority” and use a small aperture of f/16 or f/20. This will let you keep everything in focus and the camera will set your shutter speed automatically. For the advanced photographer, use your manual settings and adjust your EV setting to achieve proper exposure after you set your aperture and desired shutter speed.

5. Because we will be photographing in low light you should anchor your camera to a tripod. Your exposure times will be elongated, forcing you to mount the camera to eliminate camera shake. This will also slow down your pace of working when shooting landscapes. This means you'll take fewer but better pictures.

6. To further eliminate camera shake, you should carry a cable release. The timer function on the camera is no substitute for a cable release. The cable allows you the release the shutter when you want to release the shutter, not 2 sec or 10 sec or 15 sec from when you want to release. The release makes it so you don't have to touch the camera at all which will definitely minimize camera shake, which is especially important for those longer exposure shots. As an aside, if your camera allows it, use the mirror lock up function.

7. I would also suggest you use a circular polarizing filter to darken the sky and saturate the colors in the landscape (this is the one must-have filter for landscape photographers). To effectively produce an image using filters, meter your scene and use graduated grey or neutral density filters to darken the sky and reduce the contrast between the landscape and the sky. Polarizing filters aren't much use for bright cloudy skies but graduated filters are. Frequently, the sky looks burned out in photos because your digital sensors don't have the range to record the brightness differences between it and darker foreground scenery.

8. Shoot RAW images rather than JPGs. The RAW image will take up more room on your memory card but the RAW image will give you greater latitude for image manipulation in post processing. This is a “must do” in my opinion. I shoot all my images in RAW so that I can sharpen and adjust colors to create the best image that I can produce.

9. If shooting the entire scene before you, whenever possible, place something of interest in the foreground of the shot to create a sense of depth. At the same time, ensure that you use that small aperture to keep everything in focus. Again, f/16 or f/20.

10. If you do not have something to ground the scene, focus one third up from the bottom of the image. This way you will maximize focus of the entire scene and give the viewer the perception that the entire image is sharp.

Most importantly: be original! Develop your own style and unique vision. Any competent photographer can duplicate someone else’s work. Truly great photographers produce unique images and avoid cliché photography. Go for non-standard viewpoints, say from ground-level rather than eye-level. Imagine the world as seen from an animal's viewpoint rather than a human's. Think what the scene would look like to a flying bird or a ground dwelling squirrel.

And don't forget to tell a story! People who look at pictures will enjoy looking at a story over a snapshot any day. Telling stories with your camera forces you to slow down and think about what you are doing. What is it about this scene that makes you want to capture it as a photograph? What moves you or attracts your eye? Is there a theme, a phrase or a point of view that you want to capture and preserve? Where is the beginning, the middle and the end?

What are some of your favorite landscapes that you've captured? Share your tips!

Come back to the Craftsy blog this Friday to learn how to capture the best photographs with natural light.

An Introduction to Advanced Photography Tips

 

 Advanced Photography Tips

If you are reading this section on advanced photography tips, it probably means that you are where I was over 20 years ago, hungry for more information on photography with a burning desire to improve and move on.
For what it is worth, I have never lost that feeling; it is like a true passion that has stayed with me from 13, right through my adult life where other fads and interests have come and gone or just waned.
Advanced Photography Tips won’t bore you with all the technical jargon, there is enough of that on the internet and other publications already, and I personally find it altogether quite unnecessary (unless you are aiming to become a digital engineer, retailer or “photography forum bore”).
Advanced Photography Tips won’t teach you how to cheat or enhance your images with Photoshop. There is a time and place for that, why run before you can walk with confidence?
Advanced Photography Tips won’t tell you or influence your decision on what equipment to buy. That is a matter of personal preference and your individual situation, plus it is mostly irrelevant.
What it will do is take you back to basics, assume that you are at the beginning or just getting into digital/photography, and would like to learn simply how to get better! It will teach you how to take control, take better pictures and give yourself an idea of where you want to be in years to come.
It will only explain about the necessary terms and jargon that you need to know to get you on your way. Too much information at the start of your journey will only cause to confuse you. Learn how to take great pictures every time, easily, effortlessly and consistently and then you can move on.
If you are just starting or have found your interest in this hobby fairly recently, you are so very lucky. Although film in its day was obviously the way to go, I dread to think of the time and money that I wasted on various aspects that are no longer needed with digital;
  • Black and white darkroom – The mess, the time, the waste of paper and money, the chemicals (bad for environment), although it was fun!
  • Colour Film processing – The waiting for 2 weeks or more for the prints to arrive, the cost, the lack of Photoshop/powerful computers for editing (what you got was what you got), the possible loss or damage to film cartridges, care and storage of negatives and hundreds of prints.
  • Maximum 36 exposures – Oh the stress of being so careful when shooting as each shot was so valuable. In a way this made you think more about the photos you took but having 400+ shots on one card is such a luxury!
  • Kids – With the low cost of digital cameras and complete lack of processing costs, it is so nice to give young children “free reign” to learn this wonderful hobby from a much lower age. My son at just 2, having seen Daddy with his cameras so often, already knows how to scroll through images on our digital point and shoot camera!
The aim of Advanced Photography Tips is to ease you gently into the higher realms of photography and hopefully teach you about the more technical and advanced aspects without getting too technical if you get my drift.
I have tried, where possible, to include as many example images to illustrate the points further. The quality may not be high due to keeping the file size of the book to a downloadable minimum, but hopefully they will help.
What I will do often, is refer you to other images that I have on this website.
My first piece of advice at this stage is this: Whatever camera you have at the time of reading this book, stick with it for now. When I upgraded to digital from film, I chopped and changed for a couple of years as technology improved, until I was truly happy with the quality of images coming from my camera.
I am now at the point where I can more often than not, confidently walk around with my camera and instantly know the following:
  • What exposure setting to use on the camera to suit the shot I want – Knowing the ins and outs of your equipment is a priority.
  • What lens to use and how – Or what focal length (i.e. 24mm, 35mm, 100mm) to use if using a point and shoot or advanced digital compact.
  • I know what will make a good shot by using just the camera.
  • I also know what will make a good shot with a little help from editing in Photoshop later – Even if the image appears a little bland at the time of shooting.
  • I know when to just leave it – Burning storage space and taking too many images is a very easy trap to fall into, but can also be quite useful. Learn what to keep and what to throw away.
By the end of Advanced Photography Tips, you will hopefully feel the same way. You will have more “keepers” and feel confident that you will “see” so many more pictures as you are out and about.
Things can become so “automatic” to you, you feel like you could just blink and the image is done! Finished, edited and ready to frame. Learn to see the image before you have even taken it!

 

Thursday, 3 November 2016

Freezing Water

When shooting a waterfall, photographer Jim Richardson says, you can take the clichéd route or try for something different.
Photo: Ocean spray





Contributing editor Jim Richardson is a photojournalist recognized for his explorations of small-town life. His photos appear frequently in National Geographic magazine.


Perhaps unlocking one creative door opens another.
Somehow that’s how I felt dashing back to the Zodiacs to leave Thistle Fjord in Iceland, flush with confidence from my photographic encounter with the bird wing. If I could break through that creative barrier, what other challenges would succumb to me?
Then I remembered the cascading waterfall near our landing site. Nothing huge, just crystal clear waters sweeping past the ancient farm and dancing down over the rocks to the sea. With a couple of minutes to spare, perhaps I could pull off one more image.

First, a bit of photographic background. Waterfall pictures are moving perilously close to being clichés. I say "close" because I doubt we humans will ever lose our fascination with the delights of cascading water plunging dramatically from on high. But ... the techniques used to capture waterfall pictures have become standard fare. The most common current rage is to use a long, very slow shutter speed to turn the water into silky, silvery curtains of liquid smoothness. And lovely pictures they are. It's just that the style has been done over and over by countless photographers. Me, too—guilty as charged.

The method is simple, even if accomplishing it takes a bit of gear. You simply use a slow shutter speed, usually a half a second or longer, maybe up to as long as 30 seconds. The water in motion blurs to become as smooth as glass. The trick is getting that long shutter speed in broad daylight. You can crank the f-stop all the way down, use the lowest ISO your camera can manage, and still not get there. This is where you need to have a good, strong neutral density (ND) filter, which will cut out enough light to make the long exposure time possible. (Oh, and it should go without saying, you’ll need your tripod or a very conveniently placed rock to set your camera on.)

Well, I didn’t have either an ND filter or my tripod along, which—as it turned out—was a very good thing. That meant I couldn’t fall back on my old tricks and would have to try something new.

But there was more than mere necessity at work here. This waterfall, this setting on the coast of Iceland, was all about bracing clarity, energy, and the freshness of the moment. It was not about serenity and peacefulness, which the usual silky-water picture would have implied. Besides not having the gear to take that picture, I wanted something else.
So I went to the opposite extreme, which is often the most refreshing way out of a creative trap. I decided to try totally freezing the water with a very high shutter speed. In this case that was 1/2500 of a second, which turned the sparkling water into crystallized glass, full of dazzling shapes and totally unexpected textures. My eye could see nothing of this. It was the act of photography that revealed the possibilities.

So I kept exploring the nuances, moving closer to the side of the waterfall, able to get within mere inches of the water (without drowning my Nikon D3), seeing how getting lower put the glasslike water up against the azure sky. Held still in space, the water suggested something I knew was impossible: transparent lava.
In the end the image seemed more appropriate to this starkly beautiful land, so raw and new, so of the moment. In the middle of all this my faithful fedora blew off into the stream and up into the pool above me. Then it came swirling back by, where I could grab it, now sopping wet, but a good omen of luck within my reach.